When I started collecting and selling watches, I never had any idea on how to inspect a vintage watch because I only dealt with reputable vintage stores. But when I started going to Arrangue, I partnered with an old watch technician in Arrangue who checked the watches that I like. If you are a newbie watch collector, there is a big chance that some watch traders will definitely take advantage of you. I am sharing with you some simple tips on how to buy a vintage watch. Please read below my simple tips before buying a vintage watch.
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| Vintage Hamilton Asymmetrical Gold Plaque Case |
1. Bring with you a watch loupe at all times. It is available in any watch store. Use the loupe to inspect the dial. Dials in good condition "sometimes" correlate with a good watch movement. If you are buying a vintage Omega, e.g. Seamaster or Pie Pan, use your loupe to see if the plastic cover is original. You can see a small Omega sign in the middle of the plastic cover. Inspect also the hands of the watch. Personally, the watch hands are not a big issue for me even if the lumes have aged. If the watch has a bezel, check if it is functioning correctly.
2. Inspect the case using your loupe. Check if there are corrosion between the lugs. For Rolex watches, inspect the model number (located between the upper lug) and the serial number (located in the lower lug). Some Vintage Rolex Model and Serial Numbers have faded because of corrosion and sometimes the tightness of the endlinks somehow cut the numbers in half. If the numbers are not visible, drop the idea of buying the watch. Please also study the way Rolex engraved the model and the serial numbers. There are a lot of fake Rolex cases in the market.
3. Check the crown. Pull out the crown and check if it adjusts the time, the date, and the day calendars correctly. If the crown separates with the watch case after you pulled it out, ask a watch technician if it can be repaired. If you are buying a chronograph watch, check all the functions of the chronograph. Push the button on the upper right side above the crown. When you see the chrono hands start moving in a clockwise position, push the button located below the crown, if all the chrono hands return to zero, the chronograph is working properly.
4. Shake the watch and open the back case with a small blade. For a Vintage Rolex, ask a watch technician (there are a lot of watch technicians in Arrangue) to open up the case, if you don't have the Rolex case opener. Inspect the balance wheel if it is rotating correctly. If the balance wheel wobbles, then there is a problem with the balance wheel. I don't buy watches with a balance wheel that wobbles. It is a big problem. When the watch is already opened, check for the markings on the back case first. For a vintage Rolex, you must have a "bible" for the serial numbers corresponding the year of manufacture because if you don't have it, some people will use your ignorance to their advantage. There are also other things to consider in buying a vintage Rolex like for example, the endpiece number (the thing that connects the watch case to the bracelet) should match with the endlinks and with the model number of the watch, the year engraved on the blade of the clasp should match with the production date of the watch, etc. I suggest that you read more on Rolex. For a vintage Omega watch, inspect the movement caliber number. The caliber should also matched the engravings on the inner side of the back case. Please research more on the caliber and the correct back cases of Omega.
5. Ask the seller how much he wants for the watch. Trade professionally with the seller if you like to buy his watch. Offer a reasonable price. Do not offer a low ball price.
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| Vintage Rolex Datejust Two Tone Quickset Automatic Watch |
To old time collectors, please suggest if you want to add to my simple tips in buying a vintage watch so that the newbie collectors will learn from our experiences. Thank you!
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